Antonio Federici is a small, 3rd-generation cellar in Lazio, just south of Rome. As you'll taste here, its wines are both authentic and delicious. Normally, they only supply their meagre output to top restaurants in Rome.

But with most shut in 2020, we managed to gain a small allocation of this superb, cherry-scented red. And again, the following year. On fine limestone soils (the rocks of which were used to build some of Rome's most famous buildings) they grow some of Italy's most characterful native grapes.

From these they make a small range of award-winning wines. No doubt the skill of top Italian consultant Franco and Matteo Bernabei comes into play, as well as the commitment and passion of the family.

A silky, smooth, easy red.

Big Red El Bombero has been a top choice with customers for over 20 years. And in special vintages, winemaker Javier Domeque crafts a sophisticated Gran Reserva version using the pick of the crop from his oldest vines. To qualify for Gran Reserva status, the wine is aged in oak for three years with further time in bottle prior to release. It’s made mostly from Garnacha, an important component of many full-bodied Spanish reds (and also of Châteauneuf-du-Pape), with a generous portion of juicy Tempranillo for added flavour. It's a touch more refined than El Bombero itself, but still full of rich berry flavour and with delicious spicy complexity from American oak. Drinking perfectly right now with roast lamb, game or a selection of tapas.

This juicy, full-of-fruit red sums up the best of Aussie wine – gorgeous ripe flavour, good intensity and freshness. Way & Cat is short for ‘wayfaring catador’, catador being Spanish for taster.

So the name is a tribute to how the team source their fruit – they head out into the vineyards to taste the grapes of their grower friends. When they find the selections they like, they vinify each parcel separately, then blend the results into fruit first expressions of the varieties they chose. That blend changes vintage by vintage, depending on what performs well that year. It's top for versatility too – great as a glass on its own, tasty with roasted vegetable quiche, sausage and mash. And just the ticket at a barbecue.

Renowned French winemaker Gérard Bertrand makes his £40+ a bottle Corbières in craggy Boutenac. Just across a small country road is the village of Fabrezan and its equally amazing vineyards. It's where, in fact, Tony Laithwaite bought his first Corbières shipment back in 1971. Today young couple Amelie and Jean-Baptiste work tirelessly, in evenings and weekends (after their day jobs as consultant winemakers), tending their ancient vines and making their cru quality Corbières.

The vines were planted by J-B's great grandfather, a cellar built by his son, but more recently the grapes were all sold to the local coop. J-B and Amelie took over in 2007 and decided they could make something much better. This fabulous Grand Cru style is the result.

He’s been making this gloriously mature treasure exclusively for us for nearly 20 years, and only ever ships La Cantera when it’s been aged to smooth, mellow perfection. Javier works under the radar in Cariñena, where wine has been made for 2,000 years. But the region is overlooked in favour of world famous neighbour Rioja, so you enjoy superb value for money here (and, in the case of La Cantera, Rioja style quality). This is made from old vine Garnacha and Tempranillo and has rich, deep red berry flavours softened by years in barrel and bottle.