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And are well-placed to source the best of its truly remarkable wines.
A brilliant taste of Portugal’s flagship red, this one comes from fourth-generation Leonor Freitas (who was named ‘Comendadora,’ the equivalent of a knighthood) by the Portuguese government for her services to the wine industry. As you can imagine, she certainly knows how to produce a very fine wine. Made with fruit from the family’s acclaimed Vinha do Fava vineyard (wines from this vineyard have won over 80 Gold medals), and long aged in oak, this excellent red is packed with rich bramble, spice, herb and mineral character on a velvety smooth finish.
Until 1997, Château Haut Brisson was an 8-hectare estate in the Vignonet section of Saint Emilion. New owner Peter Kwok was keen to expand its vineyards and the range of terroir, so began to buy up vine parcels to make it up to the 18 hectares it has today. Judging by today's scores and the quality of the wine, Kwok purchased wisely and quality has soared. Today it is under the ownership of Stephane Schinazi and continues its stellar projection, with Michel Rolland as consultant.
All its top grapes go into this wine (they no longer make La Réserve), ageing 30% of it in new French barriques, so as not to overwwhelm the fruit with oak notes. Now certified organic, with the aim of going biodynamic too, the 2020 is a magnificent wine.
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Wine Advocate is emphatic in its praise for RedHeads winery: "Tour-de-force winemaking. Genius. Must be tasted to be believed." Esulé is a deep, dark seductive Cabernet Sauvignon enriched by aromatic Cabernet Franc, a worthy 90-pointer.
This is one of those 'under-the-radar' regions I love to search out, home to the finest quality wines, but not so well-known. As Wine International says, "If it weren't for the [political] line dividing Castillon from Saint-Émilion, its wines would be twice the price. The hills are the same, the soil is the same, the exposure is the same." The estate has won over 150 awards, including the Paris Lauréat Prix d'Excellence – not once, but twice – and Decanter magazine calls it the "leading estate in the Côtes de Castillon". La Clarière is our flagship wine and absolutely no expense is spared. Low yields, careful hand-sorting, months ageing in the finest new French oak, and rigorous tasting ensure only the best parcels become La Clarière. Mostly Merlot, silky, elegant, and supple, with a dash of Cabernet Sauvignon for structure, and slightly portioned Malbec and Cabernet Franc for balance. It's truly magnificent!
