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Wine Enthusiast calls Amarone “one of 15 icons in Italian wine”. They are certainly some of the country’s most treasured reds. Rooted in the ancient tradition of sun-drying grapes before fermentation, Amarone wines offer exceptional richness and a glorious combination of power and complexity that cellars well, too. No wonder they are sought after worldwide. This 2020 from esteemed Cantina Negrar pays tribute to 18th century poet Bartolomeo Lorenzi, whose epic poems celebrating rural life made Valpolicella wines famous.
The grapes are from the ancient, dry, stone terraces of the cool Marano Valley, where they ripen slowly. They are then air-dried for 120 days to intensify flavours. Decant early and enjoy with hearty dishes, or cellar.
Ultima Edizione started a few years back as a special project from the Farnese cellar. Based in an ancient castle in Abruzzo, the cellar has a terrific reputation and has been named Italy’s ‘Winery of the Year’ three times. We've been working with them for many years and for this wine we gave them free rein to produce the best red possible, regardless of region.
Talented winemaker today is Dennis Verdecchia, who cherry picked tiny parcels of premium soft, ripe Montepulciano and Sangiovese from Abruzzo, and dark Primitivo and spicy Negroamaro from sun-baked vineyards in Puglia in the south. Barrel ageing, then blending has produced this intensely flavoured, velvety red. Weighty, it’s best with roasted pork belly or a rich casserole.
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When I came over the high pass south into the Agly Valley in the 70s, I was captivated by the ancient vines on steep, terraced hills, topped by high, ruined castles. It was wild 'unknown' territory. That's where bestselling Cabalié, made by the legendary Hervé Sabardeil, is from. Hervé buys grapes for Cabalié from many vineyards, but the best grapes came from two vineyards of 100-year-old vines on schist/granite soils. They are two of France's oldest vineyards, lying on steep, terraced hillsides. When Hervé learned the farmer was retiring, he bought those two vineyards – and thus we have the 'Grand Cru' Origine … the purest essence of Cabalié … made solely from those two vineyards. It's a nearly all dark, spiced Carignan, with a few rows of silky Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, which add to the incredibly rich fruit and luscious texture.
The Independent named Rocksand Shiraz among its ‘12 Best Portuguese Wines’, giving it the title of ‘best for a meat feast’! The secret to its luscious weight and fruit-packed splendour is the sandy soils, which hold little rain for the vines, plus the unrelenting hot sun of the Setúbal Península. The result is a very modest yield of small berries crammed with juicy flavour and spice.
No wonder, then, award-winning winemaker Jaime Quendera is now forging a worldwide reputation for Setúbal’s rich, bold reds, all at affordable prices, too. A few months' ageing in French oak barrels has lent a gorgeous, spicy, vanilla lift to its wealth of ripe black fruits. A fine treat to serve with spicy chorizo sausages, a hearty stew or the Sunday roast.
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This is one of those 'under-the-radar' regions I love to search out, home to the finest quality wines, but not so well-known. As Wine International says, "If it weren't for the [political] line dividing Castillon from Saint-Émilion, its wines would be twice the price. The hills are the same, the soil is the same, the exposure is the same." The estate has won over 150 awards, including the Paris Lauréat Prix d'Excellence – not once, but twice – and Decanter magazine calls it the "leading estate in the Côtes de Castillon". La Clarière is our flagship wine and absolutely no expense is spared. Low yields, careful hand-sorting, months ageing in the finest new French oak, and rigorous tasting ensure only the best parcels become La Clarière. Mostly Merlot, silky, elegant, and supple, with a dash of Cabernet Sauvignon for structure, and slightly portioned Malbec and Cabernet Franc for balance. It's truly magnificent!