When I came over the high pass south into the Agly Valley in the 70s, I was captivated by the ancient vines on steep, terraced hills, topped by high, ruined castles. It was wild 'unknown' territory. That's where bestselling Cabalié, made by the legendary Hervé Sabardeil, is from. Hervé buys grapes for Cabalié from many vineyards, but the best grapes came from two vineyards of 100-year-old vines on schist/granite soils. They are two of France's oldest vineyards, lying on steep, terraced hillsides. When Hervé learned the farmer was retiring, he bought those two vineyards – and thus we have the 'Grand Cru' Origine … the purest essence of Cabalié … made solely from those two vineyards. It's a nearly all dark, spiced Carignan, with a few rows of silky Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, which add to the incredibly rich fruit and luscious texture.
Rated third among the top 10 wineries of Chile and Argentina by The Wine Report, Zuccardi are hugely impressive. Several years ago, their vineyard manager stumbled upon a very old vineyard in Mendoza. The owner, smoking a pipe under a tree, described his small, nuggety grapes as Cachibaché, meaning they were of little value to him (barely bringing in a profit) but potentially of great interest to someone else.
This was because old, low-yielding vines can produce very intense, complex, deeply coloured wines, albeit in tiny quantities. So Zuccardi winemaker Rubén Ruffo got to work. His Cachibaché 2021 is a blend of Shiraz and Malbec, all from this ancient vineyard. Dark fruit and spice, it's superb with lamb shanks and hearty pasta dishes.
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This is a BIG fruity red that customers adore. It comes from the little-known Jumilla region, which stretches along Spain’s eastern coast. Akin to the desert landscapes seen in Spaghetti Westerns, Jumilla is home to some of Spain’s oldest Syrah and Monastrell vines, which produce small quantities of intensely flavoured grapes. Camino de Seda, meaning ‘Silk Road’, is produced by a winery just off this historic route which brought wealth and splendour to the region over 500 years ago. It’s crafted by Scottish-born winemaker Pamela Geddes, who first gained experience in Australia, learning how to capture the freshness and fruitiness of grapes even in the hottest climates. So she’s right at home in Jumilla. A red to enjoy with hearty dishes.
Rosso di Montalcino is the little brother of the great Brunello, and one that you can enjoy drinking a little earlier. This is from the remarkable Giacomo Neri, who has not only scored an almost unheard of 100 Parker points once, but twice!
For lovers of Tuscany's ethereal Brunello di Montalcino wines, Rosso di Montalcino is a superb and more affordable alternative. It's wines don't quite last the decades of Brunello, but then sometimes you can't wait that long. This glorious pure Sangiovese is from Giacomo Neri, a winemaker renowned for his remarkable Brunellos, two of which have scored a perfect 100 points. His father founded the estate in 1971, realising the huge potential of the area's soil and climate. He passed the property to his son in 1991, who has taken excellence another step even higher, extending the vineyards, now 63 hectares, and buying up some remarkable single vineyards too. Decant this red an hour before serving with rich red meat dishes.
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Lavish plum and raspberry, wrapped in cinnamon spice and vanilla oak in this fabulous 94-point Reserva. It's made by the award-winning Castillo Labastida in Rioja, Atlantic and mountain-cooled Alavesa region.
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