Ultima Edizione started a few years back as a special project from the Farnese cellar. Based in an ancient castle in Abruzzo, the cellar has a terrific reputation and has been named Italy’s ‘Winery of the Year’ three times. We've been working with them for many years and for this wine we gave them free rein to produce the best red possible, regardless of region.

Talented winemaker today is Dennis Verdecchia, who cherry picked tiny parcels of premium soft, ripe Montepulciano and Sangiovese from Abruzzo, and dark Primitivo and spicy Negroamaro from sun-baked vineyards in Puglia in the south. Barrel ageing, then blending has produced this intensely flavoured, velvety red. Weighty, it’s best with roasted pork belly or a rich casserole.

When I came over the high pass south into the Agly Valley in the 70s, I was captivated by the ancient vines on steep, terraced hills, topped by high, ruined castles. It was wild 'unknown' territory. That's where bestselling Cabalié, made by the legendary Hervé Sabardeil, is from. Hervé buys grapes for Cabalié from many vineyards, but the best grapes came from two vineyards of 100-year-old vines on schist/granite soils. They are two of France's oldest vineyards, lying on steep, terraced hillsides. When Hervé learned the farmer was retiring, he bought those two vineyards – and thus we have the 'Grand Cru' Origine … the purest essence of Cabalié … made solely from those two vineyards. It's a nearly all dark, spiced Carignan, with a few rows of silky Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, which add to the incredibly rich fruit and luscious texture.

This juicy, full of fruit Aussie red sums up the best of Aussie wine – gorgeous ripe fruit, good intensity and freshness. Great value too. Way & Cat is short for ‘wayfaring catador’, catador being Spanish for taster. So the name is a tribute to how the team source their fruit – they head out into the vineyards to taste the grapes of their grower friends. When they find the selections they like, they vinify each parcel separately, then blend the results into fruit first expressions of the varieties they chose.

That blend changes vintage by vintage, depending what performs well that year. It's top for versatility too – great as a glass on its own, tasty with roasted vegetable quiche, sausage and mash. And just the ticket at a barbecue.

Next door to Rioja, Navarra has always been less traditional. Its winemakers were some of the first to break rank and grow non-traditional Spanish grapes. A daring move, but one celebrated now – Navarra Cabernet continues to impress.

This mellow 2017 comes from the 65-year-old Señoria de Sarria bodega, an estate highly regarded throughout the world which lies in Puente La Reina. The fruit that went into this wine usually goes into their flagship Reserva Especial, but winemaker Milagros Rodriguez put some aside to make this exciting blend.

Powerful Cabernet Sauvignon with silky old-vine Graciano, aged two years in barrel and another four years in bottle, this is a magnificent, mellow red, packed with dark fruits and sweet spice. It needs time to open up, so decant if you can, and then serve with your finest roast lamb.