Gascony used to be a one-trick pony, making the fine spirit of Armagnac. The market for that dropped dramatically 30 years ago, and growers had to search for another use for their grapes. They discovered that their Atlantic influenced climate was ideal for producing crisp, fruity whites. Good value too. Domaine de Mouchan, on the edge of the Landes de Gascony forest, has been the pride and joy of the Braisant family since 1949.

They have 58 hectares of vines growing local heroes Colombard, Ugni Blanc, Gros Manseng, even the red grape Tannat, plus Sauvignon and Chardonnay. They still produce eau de vie Armagnac, but also bright crisp, fruit driven whites like this gem. Chill down, it makes a delightful apéritif or partner to lighter dishes.

Since 1980, Jacky Gilson has been a grower and winemaker in the tiny, forgotten Burgundy region of Saint-Bris. In fact, the appellation was only created in 2003. It lies just 10 miles west of Chablis and is the only one permitted to use Sauvignon Blanc in its wines. Jacky himself grows both Sauvignon and Aligoté in his 40 hectares of vines, specialising in tantalisingly fresh, pure, crisp whites.

Hard work in the vineyard and minimal intervention in the cellar makes for very pure fruit whites, big on aromatics and with a core of freshness. Aged on its lees for six months, it has roundness too. Chill and enjoy as an apéritif, with garlicky snails or grilled fish. And from such an exceptional vintage, there is no rush with this wine.

Wine International magazine decreed, “the revival of Muscadet is coming from growers like Gadais”, a 4th-generation estate, run today by father and son, Christophe and Pierre-Henri Gadais. It was founded in 1952 by Louis Gadais – one of the first winemakers in Nantes to bottle his own wines (most was sold to merchants in bulk). La Grande Réserve du Moulin is their top cuvée, using the best bunches of Melon de Bourgogne (the only grape permitted in Muscadet) from their vineyards. It’s a fine white aged sur lie, meaning it’s left for months on its fine lees to add subtle creamy complexity to the floral apple and pear fruit. 2023 was an exceptional vintage for Muscadet, as grapes were picked during the September heatwave. An ace seafood white.

Dominio de Los Duques is crafted under the watchful eye of Don Vicente García, a man hugely respected by his winemaking colleagues in Valencia. When the Catalan growers fought to limit the name ‘Cava’ to their own sparkling wines, they offered to make an exception for him. But, instead of accepting, he chose to fight for the rights of other small growers in his region and won! Thanks to Vicente, Cava is now made in over 150 wine regions including his home town of Requena (one of the best), 40 miles from Valencia.

This fine sparkling wine was aged for 12 months to ensure richness and complexity. It has very small bubbles (a sign of quality), a refreshing stone fruit character and elegant floral notes. Serve chilled on its own or with tapas.