Let’s go back in time! To the 1st century AD and vineyards planted to serve the ruling elite at the thriving Roman port of Troia. Here, on Portugal’s windswept Atlantic coast, the only grape that thrives in the dry, sandy soils and super-hot sun is local star Castelão. This small, dark-skinned grape boasts fathomless depths of flavour – if you know how to unlock it. Back to today and enter Gold-medal maestro Jaime Quendera at Portugal’s most awarded winery, Casa Ermelinda Freitas. Only made in the best years, this Black Red flies of our shelves as soon as it's in stock. So our advice is: if you see it, buy it! Rippling with ripe plums, black fruits and laced with chocolate, with a spicy oak finish. At 14.5% it’s got power, so sip slowly.
Lying close to Margaux's Châteaux Giscours and du Tertre, Château Cazauviel remains surprisingly under the radar. It was inherited by Régis Bernaleau from his father in 1978 and today remains in family hands. It is situated on the prized gravel soils of the Arsac plateau, which lends both an intensity and a finesse to the wine. This pretty claret is from a vintage struck by early April frosts – the most devastating for many years.
It reduced yields, but as Decanter wrote, "there are some excellent wines." Most, like Cazauviel 2017, are not long keepers, but makes delightful drinking now. Ideally open a couple of hours before serving and decant. It'll make a delicious glass with roast chicken with morels or a mushroom croustade.
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The Independent named Rocksand Shiraz among its ‘12 Best Portuguese Wines’, giving it the title of ‘best for a meat feast’! The secret to its luscious weight and fruit-packed splendour is the sandy soils, which hold little rain for the vines, plus the unrelenting hot sun of the Setúbal Península. The result is a very modest yield of small berries crammed with juicy flavour and spice.
No wonder, then, award-winning winemaker Jaime Quendera is now forging a worldwide reputation for Setúbal’s rich, bold reds, all at affordable prices, too. A few months' ageing in French oak barrels has lent a gorgeous, spicy, vanilla lift to its wealth of ripe black fruits. A fine treat to serve with spicy chorizo sausages, a hearty stew or the Sunday roast.
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