Antonio Federici is a small, 3rd-generation cellar in Lazio, just south of Rome. As you'll taste here, its wines are both authentic and delicious. Normally, they only supply their meagre output to top restaurants in Rome.
But with most shut in 2020, we managed to gain a small allocation of this superb, cherry-scented red. And again, the following year. On fine limestone soils (the rocks of which were used to build some of Rome's most famous buildings) they grow some of Italy's most characterful native grapes.
From these they make a small range of award-winning wines. No doubt the skill of top Italian consultant Franco and Matteo Bernabei comes into play, as well as the commitment and passion of the family.
A silky, smooth, easy red.
Lying close to Margaux's Châteaux Giscours and du Tertre, Château Cazauviel remains surprisingly under the radar. It was inherited by Régis Bernaleau from his father in 1978 and today remains in family hands. It is situated on the prized gravel soils of the Arsac plateau, which lends both an intensity and a finesse to the wine. This pretty claret is from a vintage struck by early April frosts – the most devastating for many years.
It reduced yields, but as Decanter wrote, "there are some excellent wines." Most, like Cazauviel 2017, are not long keepers, but makes delightful drinking now. Ideally open a couple of hours before serving and decant. It'll make a delicious glass with roast chicken with morels or a mushroom croustade.
The Independent named Rocksand Shiraz among its ‘12 Best Portuguese Wines’, giving it the title of ‘best for a meat feast’! The secret to its luscious weight and fruit-packed splendour is the sandy soils, which hold little rain for the vines, plus the unrelenting hot sun of the Setúbal Península. The result is a very modest yield of small berries crammed with juicy flavour and spice.
No wonder, then, award-winning winemaker Jaime Quendera is now forging a worldwide reputation for Setúbal’s rich, bold reds, all at affordable prices, too. A few months' ageing in French oak barrels has lent a gorgeous, spicy, vanilla lift to its wealth of ripe black fruits. A fine treat to serve with spicy chorizo sausages, a hearty stew or the Sunday roast.
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And are well-placed to source the best of its truly remarkable wines.
A brilliant taste of Portugal’s flagship red, this one comes from fourth-generation Leonor Freitas (who was named ‘Comendadora,’ the equivalent of a knighthood) by the Portuguese government for her services to the wine industry. As you can imagine, she certainly knows how to produce a very fine wine. Made with fruit from the family’s acclaimed Vinha do Fava vineyard (wines from this vineyard have won over 80 Gold medals), and long aged in oak, this excellent red is packed with rich bramble, spice, herb and mineral character on a velvety smooth finish.
