Renieri is owned by its grand neighbour, Marco Bacci's historic, much lauded Castello di Bossi. The same care goes into the wines of both estates. Renieri boasts 128 hectares of land, within which lie 30 hectares of vines, in the southern stretch of Montalcino. The prized vineyards for the Brunello all lie at 350 to 420 metres altitude, some of the highest in the appellation and were replanted in 1998 to meet the high specifications of the team. Meticulous work in the vineyards and ageing in a mix of small barriques and traditional larger botti barrels result in a wine of amazing power and bold, dense fruit, with the freshness and structure to enable it to age a couple of decades at least. Delicious now; will cellar magnificently.

Next door to Rioja, Navarra has always been less traditional. Its winemakers were some of the first to break rank and grow non-traditional Spanish grapes. A daring move, but one celebrated now – Navarra Cabernet continues to impress.

This mellow 2017 comes from the 65-year-old Señoria de Sarria bodega, an estate highly regarded throughout the world which lies in Puente La Reina. The fruit that went into this wine usually goes into their flagship Reserva Especial, but winemaker Milagros Rodriguez put some aside to make this exciting blend.

Powerful Cabernet Sauvignon with silky old-vine Graciano, aged two years in barrel and another four years in bottle, this is a magnificent, mellow red, packed with dark fruits and sweet spice. It needs time to open up, so decant if you can, and then serve with your finest roast lamb.

He travelled the world making wine before an assignment to Spain in 2003. He fell in love with the ancient Garnacha bush vines of Calatayud and now can't drag himself away. This is his 'King of Garnacha' red, from his old, gnarled vineyards (50-120 years old) at a lofty 1000m above sea level. There, the blazing daytime sunshine ripens the grapes, while cold nights draw out the aromas and ensures excellent structure to this long-lived wine. Most other growers have abandoned their vineyards here – it's too hard to make a living. But Norrel teases out the very best from his grapes to make this exceptional, oak-aged red. Dark, spiced, silky and aromatic it's an exciting discovery that shows off the unique and characterfilled wines Spain is famous for.