When I came over the high pass south into the Agly Valley in the 70s, I was captivated by the ancient vines on steep, terraced hills, topped by high, ruined castles. It was wild 'unknown' territory. That's where bestselling Cabalié, made by the legendary Hervé Sabardeil, is from. Hervé buys grapes for Cabalié from many vineyards, but the best grapes came from two vineyards of 100-year-old vines on schist/granite soils. They are two of France's oldest vineyards, lying on steep, terraced hillsides. When Hervé learned the farmer was retiring, he bought those two vineyards – and thus we have the 'Grand Cru' Origine … the purest essence of Cabalié … made solely from those two vineyards. It's a nearly all dark, spiced Carignan, with a few rows of silky Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, which add to the incredibly rich fruit and luscious texture.

It uses Grenache and Carignan from his 100+ year old Maury Sec vines, and the wine is barrel aged. Powerful yet elegant, balanced and long.

The Chapoutier name is synonymous with some of the finest wines of the Rhône. The family founded an estate in the north of the region, in prized Hermitage, in 1808 and it has stayed in the family since. Michel Chapoutier took charge in the 1980s, introducing braille on his labels, single vineyard wines and meticulous biodynamic methods. His adventurous spirit made him look further afield for great estates and in 2000 he bought Bila-Haut in the Roussillon. Terroir is of the utmost importance to him and his wines must taste real!

This is a gloriously expressive red using Syrah, Grenache and Carignan from his rugged Roussillon vineyards. With silky black cherry, bramble fruit and spice, this is a top wine for roast meats or a rich cassoulet.

There are documents showing that wine was made at this beautiful property as early as 1172, when it belonged to Ermengarde, Countess of Narbonne. We don’t know the exact style and quality then, but today it is exemplary – Corbières at its sensuous best! The estate has been in the same family now since 1803 – seven generations of women and now Guillaume Allien, the eighth generation. Despite being in his final year as a medical student, Guillaume gave it all up to restore the family estate and learn winemaking.

He works with consultant Gilles Dejean to make this luscious, dark-fruited red, which speaks clearly of its stony soils, the herbal-scented garrigue and its Corbières provenance. A warming red that’s perfect for a rich casserole.