When I came over the high pass south into the Agly Valley in the 70s, I was captivated by the ancient vines on steep, terraced hills, topped by high, ruined castles. It was wild 'unknown' territory. That's where bestselling Cabalié, made by the legendary Hervé Sabardeil, is from. Hervé buys grapes for Cabalié from many vineyards, but the best grapes came from two vineyards of 100-year-old vines on schist/granite soils. They are two of France's oldest vineyards, lying on steep, terraced hillsides. When Hervé learned the farmer was retiring, he bought those two vineyards – and thus we have the 'Grand Cru' Origine … the purest essence of Cabalié … made solely from those two vineyards. It's a nearly all dark, spiced Carignan, with a few rows of silky Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, which add to the incredibly rich fruit and luscious texture.

Corbières is one of the best-known regions of southern France, adored for its characterful, robust reds, laced with dark fruit, wild herb and tobacco notes. This is a terrific find from the Terre d'Expression cellar in Fabrezan. It's a cooperative cellar, that works with its growers to gain exceptional quality grapes. All the fruit for Villa Pech Fourcat comes from a single estate in Boutenac, the only village in Corbières which may be named on the label.

Its wines are supreme thanks to very stony soils, hot dry summers and cooling winds. Vines for this red are, on average, 65 years old and very low yielding, which only adds to the power and intensity of this fabulous wine. For drinking now, open a couple of hours beforehand and decant.

Château Puech-Haut is the prized property of Gérard Bru, a passionate champion of the Languedoc.

His vineyards occupy exceptional sites, with clay and limestone soils, topped by large galet stones (just like Châteauneuf-du-Pape). That and the warm Mediterranean climate results in a very luscious style.

He has employed some top-name consultants from the start – first Bordeaux's Michel Rolland, now Philippe Cambie.

He also boasts the largest barrel in the world – so big that there's a shop inside! Critic Andrew Jefford called Gérard Bru "a dark horse", whose grandfather used to swap wine for potatoes!

Using classic grapes Roussanne, Marsanne and Viogner, barrel fermented in new oak, with bâtonnage, this is luscious, mouthfilling style.