It’s a rarely known fact that the Languedoc was the first French region to be introduced to viticultural practices by the Romans. This balmy red wine country took a hit in the 1980s when it became known for high volume wine, which lacked quality. But today, that quality is back thanks to passionate and dedicated Languedoc enthusiasts, such as Laurent Guillot. Born into a fourth generation Burgundian wine family, Laurent decided to head south and create an estate of his own. A north meets south style is evident in this spicy, supple red. With this wine he won Gold, crafting an authentic expression of the wild, sun-blessed terroir. Syrah based, it’s laden with blackberry and peppery spice, with a pep of fresh red fruit from Négrette.

“Gun-flint – the smell of sparks when flint strikes metal – is one way to characterise it” says Hugh Johnson. Plus, he adds, “the smell and taste of fresh blackcurrants, leaves and all” (Wine Companion). The finest examples come typically from small, independent growers like Reverdy – this tiny, seven hectare estate has won a disproportionate number of awards in recent years. Asparagus, gooseberry and mineral character make this aromatic 2019 a great match for pan fried fish or goat's cheese salad.

Its vineyards are nearly all planted to Merlot, with a small amount of Cabernet Franc, and tended with meticulous care. As you can see from critics' scores, it is an admired claret and one that ages very well too. Matured in French oak (50% new), it has structure and length, but above all an appealing depth of luscious fruit and spice – like Christmas in a glass! It’s a luxurious sipper, ideal with cheese after the Christmas feast. “Spiced plums and cocoa-dusted blueberries ... Succulent" (James Suckling, 94pts)

There's high praise for Cave de Tain from Jeb Dunnock, "a brilliant co-op, and the wines compete with the best out there". This is a very special wine from them, with no fancy appellation name on the label, but with glorious ripe black fruit and herbal flavour that speaks of its class. This great cellar was founded in 1933 and has a small troupe of very dedicated growers supplying superb quality grapes from the northern Rhône's finest appellations.

For this humble Vin de France, it uses grapes from Hermitage, Crozes Hermitage and Cornas, as well as some superb fruit from Collines Rhodaniennes. The wine is named after a path that runs along the edge of Crozes, from which there are breathtaking views of the steep vineyards and winding river.

Since he took over the family estate in 1990, he has also acquired sites in Languedoc, Roussillon, Provence, Alsace – and far afield in Oregon, Australia’s Heathcote and Portugal. Domaine de Bila-Haut is his prize in the Roussillon’s Latour de France.

Its rugged slopes include soils of gneiss, schist, chalk and limestone, lending richness, depth, power and finesse.

This white is made from Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris and Macabeu, with a little this vintage of Marsanne, Viognier and Roussanne for a more aromatic style.

Pure, unoaked and with white peach fruit, it pairs well with trout or chicken, but is great solo, too.