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'Vertiges' translates as 'fear of heights'. Apt for a wine made from grapes gathered on precipitous slopes by Peyrepertuse Castle. 500m above sea level on a ragged Pyrenean peak, the vines produce a wine with luscious, ripe, silky flavour.
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Bordeaux was blessed in 2019. "The vintage is looking very good" said Jancis Robinson MW, "harmony, balance and freshness are definitely the hallmarks of 2019" declared James Suckling. This is a very appealing claret from a third-generation estate that also impressed the judges, taking two Golds.
It's situated in Auriolles, in the Entre-Deux-Mers and since the current generation, David Mauro, took over, he has started to convert the vineyards to organic. The aim is to improve the health of the land and create a wine with even more richness and depth. The vines on the property are on average 45 years old, producing a moderate amount of concentrated grapes. Mostly Merlot with a little Cabernet Sauvignon, this is an appealing, supple claret.
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When I came over the high pass south into the Agly Valley in the 70s, I was captivated by the ancient vines on steep, terraced hills, topped by high, ruined castles. It was wild 'unknown' territory. That's where bestselling Cabalié, made by the legendary Hervé Sabardeil, is from. Hervé buys grapes for Cabalié from many vineyards, but the best grapes came from two vineyards of 100-year-old vines on schist/granite soils. They are two of France's oldest vineyards, lying on steep, terraced hillsides. When Hervé learned the farmer was retiring, he bought those two vineyards – and thus we have the 'Grand Cru' Origine … the purest essence of Cabalié … made solely from those two vineyards. It's a nearly all dark, spiced Carignan, with a few rows of silky Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, which add to the incredibly rich fruit and luscious texture.
Our Languedoc buyer, Mark Hoddy, was in Corbières's Fabrezan cellar, tasting through the vintage. One white stood way out, so good, he insisted on visiting the grower. The upshot is this glorious, rich oaked white with ripe peach freshness.
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