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Christophe Reboul Salze is a big name in Bordeaux. Born in central France, he fell in love with the region's wines in his youth. Arriving in Bordeaux in 1980, he decided to make his passion a career. He gained a decade's experience trading in Grand Cru Classé wines and became director at one of the leading houses. Then started his own négociant business, which remains today a leader in the field.
However, he wanted to make wine too, so he purchased three estates in the Right Bank's Premières Côtes de Blaye and employed Stéphane Derenoncourt as consultant. The results have been exceptional. This superb claret uses a cuvée from each of his properties, Châteaux Les Grands Marechaux, Gigault and Belle Coline. A fine exclusive Bordeaux red.
When I came over the high pass south into the Agly Valley in the 70s, I was captivated by the ancient vines on steep, terraced hills, topped by high, ruined castles. It was wild 'unknown' territory. That's where bestselling Cabalié, made by the legendary Hervé Sabardeil, is from. Hervé buys grapes for Cabalié from many vineyards, but the best grapes came from two vineyards of 100-year-old vines on schist/granite soils. They are two of France's oldest vineyards, lying on steep, terraced hillsides. When Hervé learned the farmer was retiring, he bought those two vineyards – and thus we have the 'Grand Cru' Origine … the purest essence of Cabalié … made solely from those two vineyards. It's a nearly all dark, spiced Carignan, with a few rows of silky Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, which add to the incredibly rich fruit and luscious texture.
In Italy Pinot Grigio is crisp and citrusy, but when the same grape is called Pinot Gris, it becomes a very different wine. Some of its finest examples are from Alsace, eastern France.
Steep slopes, abundant sunshine (the sunniest spot in all France) and the Vosges mountains all lend the region’s wines a pristine freshness, amazing intensity and purity of fruit.
This is a superb white from the Gisselbrecht family’s 350-year-old cellar, today run by brothers Philippe and Claude. The grapes are from an estate vineyard in Dambach, next door to the Frankstein Grand Cru. With granite soils and steep slopes, it produces fruit of power and intensity. Off dry, with rounded, lightly spiced stone fruit, it's great with fish pie or spicy Asian dishes.
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