“Gun-flint – the smell of sparks when flint strikes metal – is one way to characterise it” says Hugh Johnson. Plus, he adds, “the smell and taste of fresh blackcurrants, leaves and all” (Wine Companion). The finest examples come typically from small, independent growers like Reverdy – this tiny, seven hectare estate has won a disproportionate number of awards in recent years. Asparagus, gooseberry and mineral character make this aromatic 2019 a great match for pan fried fish or goat's cheese salad.

Its vineyards are nearly all planted to Merlot, with a small amount of Cabernet Franc, and tended with meticulous care. As you can see from critics' scores, it is an admired claret and one that ages very well too. Matured in French oak (50% new), it has structure and length, but above all an appealing depth of luscious fruit and spice – like Christmas in a glass! It’s a luxurious sipper, ideal with cheese after the Christmas feast. “Spiced plums and cocoa-dusted blueberries ... Succulent" (James Suckling, 94pts)

For a time, wines were all about the winemaker. Personalities that liked to take the credit. Big egos and all that. But our winemakers know too well that it's the magic that happens in the vineyard that really counts. That's the way to ensure healthy, ripe grapes of delicious fruit purity. Grapes that express the terroir they come from. Our Sparkling Rosé uses all-Merlot from a prized new vineyard at Château La Clarière, in Bordeaux's Right Bank Castillon.

Currently in the first year of organic conversion, it should gain certification in 2024. Made by the classic Charmat method, the secondary fermentation, to give it the bubble, takes place in tank, not bottle. All sealed with a crown cap too. Easy! It'll bring a sparkle to any gathering.

There's high praise for Cave de Tain from Jeb Dunnock, "a brilliant co-op, and the wines compete with the best out there". This is a very special wine from them, with no fancy appellation name on the label, but with glorious ripe black fruit and herbal flavour that speaks of its class. This great cellar was founded in 1933 and has a small troupe of very dedicated growers supplying superb quality grapes from the northern Rhône's finest appellations.

For this humble Vin de France, it uses grapes from Hermitage, Crozes Hermitage and Cornas, as well as some superb fruit from Collines Rhodaniennes. The wine is named after a path that runs along the edge of Crozes, from which there are breathtaking views of the steep vineyards and winding river.

Since he took over the family estate in 1990, he has also acquired sites in Languedoc, Roussillon, Provence, Alsace – and far afield in Oregon, Australia’s Heathcote and Portugal. Domaine de Bila-Haut is his prize in the Roussillon’s Latour de France.

Its rugged slopes include soils of gneiss, schist, chalk and limestone, lending richness, depth, power and finesse.

This white is made from Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris and Macabeu, with a little this vintage of Marsanne, Viognier and Roussanne for a more aromatic style.

Pure, unoaked and with white peach fruit, it pairs well with trout or chicken, but is great solo, too.

Corbières is one of the best-known regions of southern France, adored for its characterful, robust reds, laced with dark fruit, wild herb and tobacco notes. This is a terrific find from the Terre d'Expression cellar in Fabrezan. It's a cooperative cellar, that works with its growers to gain exceptional quality grapes. All the fruit for Villa Pech Fourcat comes from a single estate in Boutenac, the only village in Corbières which may be named on the label.

Its wines are supreme thanks to very stony soils, hot dry summers and cooling winds. Vines for this red are, on average, 65 years old and very low yielding, which only adds to the power and intensity of this fabulous wine. For drinking now, open a couple of hours beforehand and decant.