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Austrian wines are seldom seen outside the country’s borders – which is the only reason that Grüner Veltliner, the nation’s finest white grape, is not better known. This classic example is from a small winery in Krems, a town with eight centuries of winemaking tradition. Founded in 1938 by members of the local Wine Growers Guild, it lies at the heart of the Kremstal region, where clay and limestone soils “imbue the finest Veltliners with a density all of their own” (Jancis Robinson MW).
Hand harvested, the grapes are gently pressed to extract only the most delicate flavours. A classic ‘GrüVe’ with spice and green apple fruit and a white pepper finish, Danaris is ideal with roast pork and apple sauce, grilled fish or spicy Asian cuisine.
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Our Languedoc buyer, Mark Hoddy, was in Corbières's Fabrezan cellar, tasting through the vintage. One white stood way out, so good, he insisted on visiting the grower. The upshot is this glorious, rich oaked white with ripe peach freshness.
If you enjoy quality wine and appreciate value, southern France has a lot to offer. There is a myriad of appellations and producers to get to know. And fewer rules to follow, so winemakers can be creative. We have been wending our way around villages and vineyards there since the late 1960s so we know where to look and have many invaluable connections.
Yannick Pons of Domaine Saint André has a beautiful estate, skirted by the Canal du Midi and the Roman road Via Domitia. It's not far from the famous Oppidum (hilltop town) d’Ensérune, which dates back some 3,000 years. This is prime Chardonnay country, producing lovely, pure, creamy peach fruit in this modern style white. It’s perfect on its own or with salads, fish dishes or roast chicken.
