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If you enjoy quality wine and appreciate value, southern France has a lot to offer. There is a myriad of appellations and producers to get to know. And fewer rules to follow, so winemakers can be creative. We have been wending our way around villages and vineyards there since the late 1960s so we know where to look and have many invaluable connections.
Yannick Pons of Domaine Saint André has a beautiful estate, skirted by the Canal du Midi and the Roman road Via Domitia. It's not far from the famous Oppidum (hilltop town) d’Ensérune, which dates back some 3,000 years. This is prime Chardonnay country, producing lovely, pure, creamy peach fruit in this modern style white. It’s perfect on its own or with salads, fish dishes or roast chicken.
Touraine Sauvignon has long provided an affordable yet authentic and stylish alternative to the Loire’s most famous-name wines. And the fabulously fresh wines of Patrick Vauvy are no exception. He took over his family’s estate in 1985, scrutinised every stage of production in the vineyard and cellar, and now makes some of the best wines for miles around. Just try his dazzling 2022 Sauvignon Blanc.
Thanks to Patrick's insistence on waiting until the last possible moment to harvest from his perfect chalk and clay vineyards, this super-crisp white bursts with flavour. Think intense lemon, grapefruit and blossom. Endlessly refreshing, and with a great length too. Loire Sauvignon without the hefty Sancerre price tag. Great solo or with seafood.
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A Gold medal for this crisp, elegant white blending, unusually for the Languedoc, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio. It's from the vineyards of Spanish-born Jesús Aledo, now at home in southern France. Delicate herbal, ripe stone fruit, citrusy.
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Chenin Blanc is a neglected star grape that shines not only in the Loire, but also in the high slopes of Limoux. There you'll find grower Bruno Bouché tending his extensive patchwork of vineyards, with his wife and three sons. The family is from Champagne, they still have 3 hectares there, but they moved to the Languedoc in 1989 to carry on making award-winning sparkling wines that were more affordable. The grape quality from his beautifully tended vineyards is superb, which is why Chai winemaker Mark Hoddy every year reserves a vat of his Chenin Blanc.
Cool fermented with regular lees stirring, the wine has a creamy richness balanced by intense lemony zip. Le Masque is a fabulous white to enjoy solo or with seafood, noodles or chicken.
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Reuilly is a real gem for lovers of classic Loire Sauvignon. It offers the dazzling mineral finesse of nearby Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, but its wines come at a more affordable price. It's a bit of a rescue story, in fact. In the 1970s, its wines almost disappeared and the little that was produced was only enjoyed locally. Enter Claude Lafond – the saviour of Reuilly. He encouraged the planting of vines, established a shared winemaking facility for all Reuilly producers, and built an impressive, modern winery at Domaine Claude Lafond.
Now run by his daughter, Nathalie, the domaine is farmed organically and continues to go from strength to strength – just like Reuilly itself. La Raie is crisp and elegant. Ideal with goat's cheese.