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Antonio Federici is a small, 3rd-generation cellar in Lazio, just south of Rome. As you'll taste here, its wines are both authentic and exceptionally delicious.
Normally, they only supply their meagre output to top restaurants in Rome. But with most shut in 2020 and 2021, we managed to gain a small allocation of this superb, cherry-scented red.
On fine limestone soils (the rocks of which were used to build some of Rome's most famous buildings) they grow some of Italy's most characterful native grapes. From these they make a small range of highly awarded, rule-breaking wines.
No doubt the skill of top Italian consultant Franco and Matteo Bernabei come into play, as well as the commitment and passion of the family.
A great pizza or pasta red.
Wine Advocate awarded the 2017 of this Brunello 94 points and described it as "a standout wine from 2017", a "great balance of dark fruit, rose and tar". It’s from the third generation estate, among the best family producers of the region.
Founded in 1965 by Alfo Bartolommei, this remarkable family estate is one of the region’s star performers. It used to be part of the great Pieve Santa Restituta and is also a neighbour to the renowned Soldara. All in all, with its 21 hectares of vines, the property is perfectly situated to produce some of the very finest Brunellos. Every vintage, their wines gain top scores. Alfo’s three children – Paolo, Paola and Manuele – now run the estate, with grandson Giacomo as winemaker. They’ve been ratcheting up the quality in recent years, so it's remarkable how this domaine has remained relatively under the radar. Despite his youth and dynamism, Giacomo keeps methods fairly traditional, as well as organic. This is a mesmerising, complex red.
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A glorious, top vintage Super Tuscan, awarded a phenomenal 99 points by Italy’s top critic, Luca Maroni. It’s from a Tuscan estate that’s no stranger to high-90s scores. Sangiovese with Merlot and Cab, barrel aged, it is sumptuous and rich.
Luca Maroni 99pts!
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This wine is what we term a 'cleanskin', or the Italian, an Edizione Limitata. It's a top-quality wine with minimal information on the label – part of the deal of getting 5-star Brunello at a great price. What we can say is that it comes from a beautiful estate in Castelnuova Berardenga, in the south of Chianti Classico. The Romans were the first to plant vines here, while its buildings date back to 1099.
The current owners purchased it in 1984 and, in a very short time, have made its wines some of the most sought after of the region. It is 100% organic and solar powered too. From the warm 2017 vintage, this Brunello offers a panoply of ripe cherry, plum, rose and violet notes, with polished tannins. Open early and decant or cellar.
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Renieri is owned by its grand neighbour, Marco Bacci's historic, much lauded Castello di Bossi. The same care goes into the wines of both estates. Renieri boasts 128 hectares of land, within which lie 30 hectares of vines, in the southern stretch of Montalcino. The prized vineyards for the Brunello all lie at 350 to 420 metres altitude, some of the highest in the appellation and were replanted in 1998 to meet the high specifications of the team. Meticulous work in the vineyards and ageing in a mix of small barriques and traditional larger botti barrels result in a wine of amazing power and bold, dense fruit, with the freshness and structure to enable it to age a couple of decades at least. Delicious now; will cellar magnificently.
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