Oltrepo Pavese lies in southwest Lombardy, next to Piedmont, hence its former name, Old Piedmont. Castello di Cigognola is an impressive, 13th-century castle, lying high on a hill, overlooking the Scuropasso Valley, across to Emilia Romagna. No wonder, then, it was once a stronghold for feudal lords. Over the centuries, it has been a gathering place for politicians and philosophers and today it remains a tranquil spot. It is home to many artistic pursuits, including great wine. Gabriele Moratti is in charge today. Sustainably tended, the vineyards are in the process of organic conversion. Using all Barbera from their 30-year-old La Maga vineyard, the wine had a year's ageing in small barrels. A very fine red. Open early and decant, or age.

Antonio Federici is a small, 3rd-generation cellar in Lazio, just south of Rome. As you'll taste here, its wines are both authentic and delicious. Normally, they only supply their meagre output to top restaurants in Rome.

But with most shut in 2020, we managed to gain a small allocation of this superb, cherry-scented red. And again, the following year. On fine limestone soils (the rocks of which were used to build some of Rome's most famous buildings) they grow some of Italy's most characterful native grapes.

From these they make a small range of award-winning wines. No doubt the skill of top Italian consultant Franco and Matteo Bernabei comes into play, as well as the commitment and passion of the family.

A silky, smooth, easy red.

Top winemaker Andrea Bernardini has discovered just how to get the most from the superb Nero di Troia grape. The result is the deliciously dark, velvety Corsiero. No need to blend Nero di Troia with softer varieties – gently pressed and carefully vinified, it makes a seductive, deeply flavoured, fruit-rich red. Nero di Troia is named after the town of Troia in northern Puglia, said to have been founded by Greek hero Diomedes, famous for helping to defeat the city of Troy in Asia Minor (yes, the grape really is that old!). Just outside Troia, the story goes, Diomedes planted vine cuttings named Nero after the dark colour of the grape skins and the deep-hued wine. Rich, warming Corsiero is perfect with rich pasta dishes, game or hearty stew.

After all, right across Italy Prosecco is the bubbly of choice and as much a part of daily life as gelato or an espresso.

This wine is from northern Italy's Alessandro Gallici. He knows every grape grower worth knowing, every premium vineyard, and has spent his life making outstanding wines.

We first met him when he was head winemaker at a large winery. Every vintage, he'd impress us, but he was also keen to go out on his own.

We were delighted and promised we'd be his first customer. We're still championing his great wines today.

His fizz is beautifully fresh and, served chilled, makes a tasty aperitivo.