Brunello di Montalcino is one of Italy’s most magnificent reds, collectors’ wines that can age for decades. This is a fine release from Casanova di Neri. A favourite of critics, the estate was founded in 1971 by Giacomo’s father, Giovanni, producing his first wine in 1978. Since then they have bought small parcels of top quality vines. Giacomo took over in 1991 and is one of the few to achieve a perfect 100 point rating from both Wine Advocate and James Suckling. This Brunello has been made traditionally, with 40 months ageing in large, old oak casks to lend notes of cedar, leather and spice to the intense red fruit character – all held together with fine tannins. Open early and decant. Superb with steak or duck breast.

It’s a terrific glassful on its own, anytime of the day, perfect with a slice of cake (Madeira or lemon and almond perhaps) or fruity pudding. Moscato is of course the same as France’s Muscat, one of the most aromatic varieties in the world, only challenged to that title by Gewurztraminer! Asti is the finest area of Italy’s Piedmont for the style and we think this is the best we’ve tasted. It’ll bring thoughts of spring to mind whatever the time of year. Embrace the sweetness and freshness – this fizz is a delight. Chill well.

Wine Enthusiast calls Amarone “one of the 15 icons in Italian wine”. They are certainly some of the most prized reds from Italy, made by the ancient tradition of sun drying grapes before fermentation. This gives them an amazing richness, a glorious combination of power and complexity that cellars well, too. No wonder they are prized the world over. This 2017 from the renowned Cantina Negrar is named after the 18th century poet Bartolomeo Lorenzi, whose epic poem celebrating rural life made Valpolicella wines famous. The grapes are from the ancient dry stone terraces of the cool Marano Valley, where they ripen slowly. They are then air dried for 120 days to intensify flavours. A superb bottle to enjoy now with hearty dishes or to cellar.

This plush and powerful example comes from Dino Taschetta, who uses old vine fruit from his grandfather's vineyard, high up in Poggioreale. It was abandoned after an earthquake, but when Dino discovered the quality of the ancient vines, he returned to create this silky and sensuous black red.