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This is a stellar white Rioja. t’s the flagship of Altos, a cellar founded in 2006 by winemaker Jean-Marc Sauboua, and already with 125 Golds. Old-vine Viura and Chardonnay, fermented in barrel, this is intense, citrusy and toasty.
Savour oodles of lavish berry fruit in this juicy Rioja, with its silky texture and subtle oak spice.
It’s from Primicia, a bodega adored by customers and also by fine wine guru Robert Parker. He is full of praise for their fruity, modern Riojas.
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Casa Primicia is one of the oldest buildings in Rioja Alavesa – in the 15th century it was where the Church collected tithes. In 1985 the Madrid brothers bought it and converted it into a winery. A host of prestigious awards soon followed, including the ‘Grand Prix d’Honneur’ at Vinexpo in Bordeaux. Grapes for this wine come from a beautiful 40-year-old vineyard and a good vintage.
Winemaker was Fernando Domingo (he trained under great oenologist Don Manuel Ruiz Hernández), who aged the wine in American and French oak barrels for 18 months, the rest in bottle, to obtain the perfect balance of subtle spice and deep fruit. A superb Rioja Reserva with red berry notes, cocoa, vanilla and toasty oak. Excellent with tapas, lamb or rice dishes.
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Classic Rioja fans will love this red, with all its moreish, silky, ripe berry fruit tempered by toasty spice. No wonder the late Spanish expert John Radford listed Primicia among his top 20 Rioja bodegas. It’s a family estate, founded by three brothers, and has over the years won many awards. This 2021 is made from 100% strawberry-scented Tempranillo, from mature, low-yielding vineyards.
Winemaker Fernando Domingo matured the wine in American oak barrels for four months – just enough to flatter the fruit with gentle toasty spice and hints of vanilla, while letting plenty of exuberant, youthful fruit character shine through. A delight on its own, this wine is spot on with garlic chicken, lamb chops with rosemary or a selection of tapas.
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With many wines ranked over 90 points, Bodegas La Emperatriz is one of Rioja's finest estates. This is their seductively long, complex 7-year-old Gran Reserva from a remarkably single vineyard, just beginning to show at its best. Savour slowly.