These wines kick started the region's renaissance and became some of the most exclusive and expensive in the world. Saracosa is from the Barbanera family estate, overlooked by the Saracosa hill near Montalcino. Half the vineyards are in the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG, and the remainder just beyond. In the fine 2019 vintage Saracosa's old vines delivered exceptional concentration.
The fruit was then part-aged in French oak barriques to lend a toasty layer of complexity. Dense, dark cherry and chocolatey tones make this a serious choice for pasta with pork ragù or bistecca alla fiorentina (steak with cannellini beans in tomato sauce).

Founded in 1965 by Alfo Bartolommei, this remarkable family estate is one of the region’s star performers. It used to be part of the great Pieve Santa Restituta and is also a neighbour to the renowned Soldara. All in all, with its 21 hectares of vines, the property is perfectly situated to produce some of the very finest Brunellos. Every vintage, their wines gain top scores. Alfo’s three children – Paolo, Paola and Manuele – now run the estate, with grandson Giacomo as winemaker. They’ve been ratcheting up the quality in recent years, so it's remarkable how this domaine has remained relatively under the radar. Despite his youth and dynamism, Giacomo keeps methods fairly traditional, as well as organic. This is a mesmerising, complex red.

Oltrepo Pavese lies in southwest Lombardy, next to Piedmont, hence its former name, Old Piedmont. Castello di Cigognola is an impressive, 13th-century castle, lying high on a hill, overlooking the Scuropasso Valley, across to Emilia Romagna. No wonder, then, it was once a stronghold for feudal lords. Over the centuries, it has been a gathering place for politicians and philosophers and today it remains a tranquil spot. It is home to many artistic pursuits, including great wine. Gabriele Moratti is in charge today. Sustainably tended, the vineyards are in the process of organic conversion. Using all Barbera from their 30-year-old La Maga vineyard, the wine had a year's ageing in small barrels. A very fine red. Open early and decant, or age.

Brunello di Montalcino is one of Italy’s most magnificent reds, collectors’ wines that can age for decades. This is a fine release from Casanova di Neri. A favourite of critics, the estate was founded in 1971 by Giacomo’s father, Giovanni, producing his first wine in 1978. Since then they have bought small parcels of top quality vines. Giacomo took over in 1991 and is one of the few to achieve a perfect 100 point rating from both Wine Advocate and James Suckling. This Brunello has been made traditionally, with 40 months ageing in large, old oak casks to lend notes of cedar, leather and spice to the intense red fruit character – all held together with fine tannins. Open early and decant. Superb with steak or duck breast.