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Presenting a bottle of L’Occhiolino – that’s ‘Locky-Oh-Leeno’ – you’ve just discovered Italy’s ancient secret. A light ruby fizz the Romans used to drink, brimful of juicy, sweet fruit.
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The wine treasures of Lombardy's Oltrepo Pavese rarely escape Italian. Every reason to seize your chance with this mature, oak-matured masterpiece from a 13th century castle! Oak and cherry-scented, it is silky, yet firm and bewitchingly long.
Oltrepo Pavese lies in southwest Lombardy, next to Piedmont, hence its former name, Old Piedmont. Castello di Cigognola is an impressive, 13th-century castle, lying high on a hill, overlooking the Scuropasso Valley, across to Emilia Romagna. No wonder, then, it was once a stronghold for feudal lords. Over the centuries, it has been a gathering place for politicians and philosophers and today it remains a tranquil spot. It is home to many artistic pursuits, including great wine. Gabriele Moratti is in charge today. Sustainably tended, the vineyards are in the process of organic conversion. Using all Barbera from their 30-year-old La Maga vineyard, the wine had a year's ageing in small barrels. A very fine red. Open early and decant, or age.
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Top Soave is a revelation – it offers delicately nuanced fruit, creamy body and stony freshness that enable the wines to age gracefully. You find all this and more in this sensational white from local star winemaker Antonio Fattori. Wine Advocate says “his white Soave expressions are the true standouts”. He searches out Garganega grapes from the slopes of Monte Calvarina, the volcanic soils of which lend a bright minerality to the wine. Hand picking is as essential on these steep slopes as it is for quality, while lees stirring in old oak vats lends a creamy roundness and texture to this terrific wine. Delicate apricot with wild herb notes of sage make this an exciting white. Gently chill and serve with fine white meat or fish dishes.
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Flagship red of this applauded Puglian co-operative. It was created by Angelo Maci in 1989 to save the region’s ancient vines and the growers’ livelihood. This top cask-matured red uses air-dried grapes and is velvety, rich and long.
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Even if you think you’re not a fan of a medium-sweet style of fizz, this is one you must try. It’s full of refreshing bubbly charm with classic Moscato hints of rose petal and grape that makes your mouth water.
It’s a terrific glassful on its own, anytime of the day, perfect with a slice of cake (Madeira or lemon and almond perhaps) or fruity pudding. Moscato is of course the same as France’s Muscat, one of the most aromatic varieties in the world, only challenged to that title by Gewurztraminer! Asti is the finest area of Italy’s Piedmont for the style and we think this is the best we’ve tasted. It’ll bring thoughts of spring to mind whatever the time of year. Embrace the sweetness and freshness – this fizz is a delight. Chill well.
