For lovers of Tuscany's ethereal Brunello di Montalcino wines, Rosso di Montalcino is a superb and more affordable alternative. It's wines don't quite last the decades of Brunello, but then sometimes you can't wait that long. This glorious pure Sangiovese is from Giacomo Neri, a winemaker renowned for his remarkable Brunellos, two of which have scored a perfect 100 points. His father founded the estate in 1971, realising the huge potential of the area's soil and climate. He passed the property to his son in 1991, who has taken excellence another step even higher, extending the vineyards, now 63 hectares, and buying up some remarkable single vineyards too. Decant this red an hour before serving with rich red meat dishes.

Oltrepo Pavese lies in southwest Lombardy, next to Piedmont, hence its former name, Old Piedmont. Castello di Cigognola is an impressive, 13th-century castle, lying high on a hill, overlooking the Scuropasso Valley, across to Emilia Romagna. No wonder, then, it was once a stronghold for feudal lords. Over the centuries, it has been a gathering place for politicians and philosophers and today it remains a tranquil spot. It is home to many artistic pursuits, including great wine. Gabriele Moratti is in charge today. Sustainably tended, the vineyards are in the process of organic conversion. Using all Barbera from their 30-year-old La Maga vineyard, the wine had a year's ageing in small barrels. A very fine red. Open early and decant, or age.

Founded in 1965 by Alfo Bartolommei, this remarkable family estate is one of the region’s star performers. It used to be part of the great Pieve Santa Restituta and is also a neighbour to the renowned Soldara. All in all, with its 21 hectares of vines, the property is perfectly situated to produce some of the very finest Brunellos. Every vintage, their wines gain top scores. Alfo’s three children – Paolo, Paola and Manuele – now run the estate, with grandson Giacomo as winemaker. They’ve been ratcheting up the quality in recent years, so it's remarkable how this domaine has remained relatively under the radar. Despite his youth and dynamism, Giacomo keeps methods fairly traditional, as well as organic. This is a mesmerising, complex red.