For lovers of Tuscany's ethereal Brunello di Montalcino wines, Rosso di Montalcino is a superb and more affordable alternative. It's wines don't quite last the decades of Brunello, but then sometimes you can't wait that long. This glorious pure Sangiovese is from Giacomo Neri, a winemaker renowned for his remarkable Brunellos, two of which have scored a perfect 100 points. His father founded the estate in 1971, realising the huge potential of the area's soil and climate. He passed the property to his son in 1991, who has taken excellence another step even higher, extending the vineyards, now 63 hectares, and buying up some remarkable single vineyards too. Decant this red an hour before serving with rich red meat dishes.

This plush and powerful example comes from Dino Taschetta, who uses old vine fruit from his grandfather's vineyard, high up in Poggioreale. It was abandoned after an earthquake, but when Dino discovered the quality of the ancient vines, he returned to create this silky and sensuous black red.

Brunello di Montalcino is one of Italy’s most magnificent reds, collectors’ wines that can age for decades. This is a fine release from Casanova di Neri. A favourite of critics, the estate was founded in 1971 by Giacomo’s father, Giovanni, producing his first wine in 1978. Since then they have bought small parcels of top quality vines. Giacomo took over in 1991 and is one of the few to achieve a perfect 100 point rating from both Wine Advocate and James Suckling. This Brunello has been made traditionally, with 40 months ageing in large, old oak casks to lend notes of cedar, leather and spice to the intense red fruit character – all held together with fine tannins. Open early and decant. Superb with steak or duck breast.

Oltrepo Pavese lies in southwest Lombardy, next to Piedmont, hence its former name, Old Piedmont. Castello di Cigognola is an impressive, 13th-century castle, lying high on a hill, overlooking the Scuropasso Valley, across to Emilia Romagna. No wonder, then, it was once a stronghold for feudal lords. Over the centuries, it has been a gathering place for politicians and philosophers and today it remains a tranquil spot. It is home to many artistic pursuits, including great wine. Gabriele Moratti is in charge today. Sustainably tended, the vineyards are in the process of organic conversion. Using all Barbera from their 30-year-old La Maga vineyard, the wine had a year's ageing in small barrels. A very fine red. Open early and decant, or age.

Wine Enthusiast calls Amarone “one of 15 icons in Italian wine”. They are certainly some of the country’s most treasured reds. Rooted in the ancient tradition of sun-drying grapes before fermentation, Amarone wines offer exceptional richness and a glorious combination of power and complexity that cellars well, too. No wonder they are sought after worldwide. This 2020 from esteemed Cantina Negrar pays tribute to 18th century poet Bartolomeo Lorenzi, whose epic poems celebrating rural life made Valpolicella wines famous.

The grapes are from the ancient, dry, stone terraces of the cool Marano Valley, where they ripen slowly. They are then air-dried for 120 days to intensify flavours. Decant early and enjoy with hearty dishes, or cellar.