Oltrepo Pavese lies in southwest Lombardy, next to Piedmont, hence its former name, Old Piedmont. Castello di Cigognola is an impressive, 13th-century castle, lying high on a hill, overlooking the Scuropasso Valley, across to Emilia Romagna. No wonder, then, it was once a stronghold for feudal lords. Over the centuries, it has been a gathering place for politicians and philosophers and today it remains a tranquil spot. It is home to many artistic pursuits, including great wine. Gabriele Moratti is in charge today. Sustainably tended, the vineyards are in the process of organic conversion. Using all Barbera from their 30-year-old La Maga vineyard, the wine had a year's ageing in small barrels. A very fine red. Open early and decant, or age.

Castel del Lago is an exciting, super-fresh white from Matteo Bernabei. Consultant for pricy top wineries by day, he has his own vines where, by night, he makes this gem. It features Garganega, the key grape of Soave, that naturally lends citrusy freshness. Grown on sloping vineyards that lead down to the lake (the largest in Italy) the grapes ripen really well. All that sunshine is reflected off the water back up to the vines. The soil helps too – stony and well drained, it adds to the fruity intensity. Matteo then blends in a dash of Chardonnay and ages the wine several months on its lees, which lends a delicious creamy weight to the freshness. It's a wine that's ideal on its own or with food, such as prosciutto and melon, fish or salads.

After all, right across Italy Prosecco is the bubbly of choice and as much a part of daily life as gelato or an espresso.

This wine is from northern Italy's Alessandro Gallici. He knows every grape grower worth knowing, every premium vineyard, and has spent his life making outstanding wines.

We first met him when he was head winemaker at a large winery. Every vintage, he'd impress us, but he was also keen to go out on his own.

We were delighted and promised we'd be his first customer. We're still championing his great wines today.

His fizz is beautifully fresh and, served chilled, makes a tasty aperitivo.

Not at all, but his family had a bit of land in Friuli, with a few rows of vines, that had been theirs for generations. From the grapes of these, they made a simple wine for their own dinner table. All this fascinated Alessandro, and wine became his chosen career. And we're glad it did.

We've known Alessandro since 2002 and love every new wine he sends our way. For this fizz Alessandro carefully selected Glera grapes with a drop of Chardonnay.

In Champagne, this would add to the price – in the Veneto this addition means it can't be labelled Prosecco, but frizzante. Whatever, it delivers citrus, tropical fruit with gentle bubbles.