Fronsac's fine Château Dalem perches high on a hill, surrounded by its 14 hectares of sloping vineyards. It's an historic estate, with records dating back to 1610, that stayed in the same family until 1955. Michel Rullier then took it over and today it's run with great success by his descendant, Brigitte Rullier-Loussert. Its vineyards are nearly all planted to Merlot, with a small amount of Cabernet Franc, and tended with meticulous care.
As you can see from critics' scores (92 points from James Suckling and 94 from Vertedevin), it is an admired claret and one that ages very well too. Matured in French oak (50% new), it has structure and length, but above all an appealing fruity depth. Perfect with roast meat or wild mushroom risotto.
Until 1997, Château Haut Brisson was an 8-hectare estate in the Vignonet section of Saint Emilion. New owner Peter Kwok was keen to expand its vineyards and the range of terroir, so began to buy up vine parcels to make it up to the 18 hectares it has today. Judging by today's scores and the quality of the wine, Kwok purchased wisely and quality has soared. Today it is under the ownership of Stephane Schinazi and continues its stellar projection, with Michel Rolland as consultant.
All its top grapes go into this wine (they no longer make La Réserve), ageing 30% of it in new French barriques, so as not to overwwhelm the fruit with oak notes. Now certified organic, with the aim of going biodynamic too, the 2020 is a magnificent wine.
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This is one of those 'under-the-radar' regions I love to search out, home to the finest quality wines, but not so well-known. As Wine International says, "If it weren't for the [political] line dividing Castillon from Saint-Émilion, its wines would be twice the price. The hills are the same, the soil is the same, the exposure is the same." The estate has won over 150 awards, including the Paris Lauréat Prix d'Excellence – not once, but twice – and Decanter magazine calls it the "leading estate in the Côtes de Castillon". La Clarière is our flagship wine and absolutely no expense is spared. Low yields, careful hand-sorting, months ageing in the finest new French oak, and rigorous tasting ensure only the best parcels become La Clarière. Mostly Merlot, silky, elegant, and supple, with a dash of Cabernet Sauvignon for structure, and slightly portioned Malbec and Cabernet Franc for balance. It's truly magnificent!
With four Trophies and 80+ Golds, Château La Clarière is clear proof that Castillon wines can surpass those of Grand Cru St-Émilion. From the exceptional 2020 vintage, this rich, velvety claret, packed with fruit, deserves its five Golds.
Château Pavie Macquin was founded by in the 19th century by Albert Macquin, the man credited for introducing grafted vines to France thus saving the country's vineyards from destruction by phylloxera.
In 2021, winemaker Nicolas Thienpont waited patiently for perfect ripeness, harvesting the grapes as late as October 19th. The resulting wine is a stunning expression of this exceptional vintage and terroir. Intense black and blue fruit aromas mingle with captivating floral notes of violets and iris. The palate is full-bodied and structured, with polished, tensile tannins that beautifully balance the wine's exuberant fruit. There is excellent drive and elegance through the long, compelling finish, suggesting this Pavie-Macquin will age gracefully for years to come. A profound Saint-Émilion that exemplifies the heights of this celebrated appellation.
94-95 points James Suckling
"Lots of blackberry and inky character to this year. Always refined and polished with lovely length and medium body. 79% merlot, 19% cabernet franc and 2% cabernet sauvignon." (6/2022)
93-95 points Wine Advocate
"Another success in this challenging year is the 2021 Pavie Macquin, a promising effort that offers up aromas of sweet berries, Indian spices, licorice and bay leaf. Medium to full-bodied, layered and incisive, it's a tensile, tightly wound wine that's concentrated and penetrating, concluding with a mineral finish. Its low pH profile means that this is always an estate that gains a lot from élevage, but even at this early stage, it's clear that this has excellent potential. (WK)" (4/2022)
94 points Decanter
"Bramble, coffee and caramel notes on the nose. Juicy and vibrant on the palate, this has a gentle coursing of strawberry and blackcurrant fruit with blackcurrant leaf giving a savoury, almost herbal edge, while the crushed stone and slate bring in minerality and salinity on the finish. Detailed and nuanced - I like the overall texture, there is grip and aromatic interest with density, chew and a gorgeous core of acidity that keeps things playful and joyous. Supremely alive and thriving on the palate with a persistence that doesn't let up. I love this and think it will be excellent after ageing. Tasted twice. (GH)" (3/2022)
Accolades:
Robert Parker 93-95/100
Bettane & Desseauve 95-96/100
Wine Spectator 92/100
J. Suckling 96/100
Vinous - A. Galloni 94+/100
The Wine Independent 92-94/100
Alexandre Ma 95-97/100
Vinous Neal Martin 93/100
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Castillon is a tucked-away Right Bank Bordeaux appellation that, for too long, has lived in the shadow of its famous neighbour, Saint-Emilion. The two regions share the same soils, grapes and climate and the best Castillon wines certainly stand scrutiny next to the Grands Crus of the famous one. The upside is that claret lovers can still find Castillon wines at exceptionally good prices.
Château Joanin came into the Bécot family in 2001. It has the highest vineyards in all Castillon, in the lieu-dit of Joanin. Juliette Bécot is today in charge and, with the renowned Bordeaux winemaker Thomas Duclos as consultant, it’s clear they are aiming high. Merlot with Cabernet Franc, aged 50% in new oak, this is a rich red. Open early and decant.
Love a luxury Italian wine? Then put your name on the list to reserve for this sublime Tuscan wine – the "best wine ever from here" according to James Suckling, who rates it a stellar 96pts.
Tenuta Prima Pietra was founded in 2002 by Massimo Ferragamo, who searched out the highest land possible (450 metres above sea level) in coastal Tuscany, near the beautiful medieval village of Riparbella, just north of Bolgheri. He wanted his wine to benefit from the purity and freshness gained from the cooler, elevated site, where the sunshine is hot and intense during the day, and temperatures drop sharply at night.
The 100% certified organic vineyards overlooking the sea are comprised of 50% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc and 10% Petit Verdot, ratios which mirror the portions used in the final ‘Super Tuscan' blend. Hand-picked, each batch was vinified separately, then blended and matured in luxury French oak for 18 months. The end result? This exquisitely rich and lavish wine, boasting 93pts from The Wine Advocate, 95pts from Falstaff Magazine and an impressive 96pts from James Suckling.
"Fabulous red with bright aromas of dark berries, mint, spices and blueberries. Best wine ever from here… 96pts" (James Suckling)
Prima Pietra embodies complexity and elegance, the highest expression of the potential of the terroir. "Elegance, attention to detail and quality, refined simplicity and a love of the land are the hallmarks of Prima Pietra, and pair with my sense of style too," says Massimo Ferragamo. This luxury collector's red, which appears on some of the finest wine lists, is one you must have for your cellar.
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In 1969, Michel Bécot acquired the château and brought the area under vine up to 18.50 hectares thanks to the purchase of neighbouring vineyard plots with the same terroir. He also turned seven hectares of former underground limestone quarries into a storage cellar where tens of thousands of bottles age under ideal conditions. His work in improving and embellishing the estate went on until his retirement in 1985. His two sons, Gérard and Dominique, have followed in their father’s footsteps while introducing numerous technical innovations to both the cellars and the vineyard. Only the ripest, healthiest grapes are now harvested, and then sorted one by one. Gérard’s daughter, Juliette, started working at the château in 2001 in order to market wines from the family estate.95-97 points Wine Advocate Displaying a deep purple-black color, the 2020 Beau-Sejour Becot prances out of the glass with showy scents of preserved plums, chocolate-covered cherries, wild blueberries and raspberry preserves, plus suggestions of rose oil, ground cloves and licorice. The elegantly crafted, medium-bodied palate shimmers with energy, offering a fantastic intensity of crunchy red and black fruits, supported by fine-grained tannins and bold freshness, finishing long and perfumed. Simply stunning. (5/2021)
94-96 points Jeb Dunnuck The vivid purple-hued 2020 Château Beau-Séjour Bécot is another ethereal, incredibly perfumed, mineral-laced Saint-Emilion, which is common from wines from the upper, limestone plateau. Gorgeous cassis and black cherry fruits as well as floral notes, violets, and chalky minerality all define the nose, and it’s medium-bodied, has wonderfulness and purity, and reveals a liqueur of rocks-like minerality on the finish. It’s another thrillingly complete wine from this team that shines for its purity, elegance, and complexity. (5/2021)
J. Suckling : 96-97/100
Anthocyanes / Y.Castaing : 98-100/100
Terre de Vins : 98-98/100
Decanter : 95/100
Jeb Dunnuck : 94-96/100
Wine Advocate : 95-97/100
Vinous – N.Martin : 92-94/100
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