Founded in 1965 by Alfo Bartolommei, this remarkable family estate is one of the region’s star performers. It used to be part of the great Pieve Santa Restituta and is also a neighbour to the renowned Soldara. All in all, with its 21 hectares of vines, the property is perfectly situated to produce some of the very finest Brunellos. Every vintage, their wines gain top scores. Alfo’s three children – Paolo, Paola and Manuele – now run the estate, with grandson Giacomo as winemaker. They’ve been ratcheting up the quality in recent years, so it's remarkable how this domaine has remained relatively under the radar. Despite his youth and dynamism, Giacomo keeps methods fairly traditional, as well as organic. This is a mesmerising, complex red.

Top winemaker Andrea Bernardini has discovered just how to get the most from the superb Nero di Troia grape. The result is the deliciously dark, velvety Corsiero. No need to blend Nero di Troia with softer varieties – gently pressed and carefully vinified, it makes a seductive, deeply flavoured, fruit-rich red. Nero di Troia is named after the town of Troia in northern Puglia, said to have been founded by Greek hero Diomedes, famous for helping to defeat the city of Troy in Asia Minor (yes, the grape really is that old!). Just outside Troia, the story goes, Diomedes planted vine cuttings named Nero after the dark colour of the grape skins and the deep-hued wine. Rich, warming Corsiero is perfect with rich pasta dishes, game or hearty stew.

Brunello di Montalcino is one of Italy’s most magnificent reds, collectors’ wines that can age for decades. This is a fine release from Casanova di Neri. A favourite of critics, the estate was founded in 1971 by Giacomo’s father, Giovanni, producing his first wine in 1978. Since then they have bought small parcels of top quality vines. Giacomo took over in 1991 and is one of the few to achieve a perfect 100 point rating from both Wine Advocate and James Suckling. This Brunello has been made traditionally, with 40 months ageing in large, old oak casks to lend notes of cedar, leather and spice to the intense red fruit character – all held together with fine tannins. Open early and decant. Superb with steak or duck breast.

Antonio Federici is a small, 3rd-generation cellar in Lazio, just south of Rome. As you'll taste here, its wines are both authentic and exceptionally delicious.

Normally, they only supply their meagre output to top restaurants in Rome. But with most shut in 2020 and 2021, we managed to gain a small allocation of this superb, cherry-scented red.

On fine limestone soils (the rocks of which were used to build some of Rome's most famous buildings) they grow some of Italy's most characterful native grapes. From these they make a small range of highly awarded, rule-breaking wines.

No doubt the skill of top Italian consultant Franco and Matteo Bernabei come into play, as well as the commitment and passion of the family.

A great pizza or pasta red.