When I came over the high pass south into the Agly Valley in the 70s, I was captivated by the ancient vines on steep, terraced hills, topped by high, ruined castles. It was wild 'unknown' territory. That's where bestselling Cabalié, made by the legendary Hervé Sabardeil, is from. Hervé buys grapes for Cabalié from many vineyards, but the best grapes came from two vineyards of 100-year-old vines on schist/granite soils. They are two of France's oldest vineyards, lying on steep, terraced hillsides. When Hervé learned the farmer was retiring, he bought those two vineyards – and thus we have the 'Grand Cru' Origine … the purest essence of Cabalié … made solely from those two vineyards. It's a nearly all dark, spiced Carignan, with a few rows of silky Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, which add to the incredibly rich fruit and luscious texture.

Here, in the UK, we don't get to drink much Californian Zinfandel - 95% of it is consumed locally. And Lodi is one of the elite regions for growing it, its wines gorgeously rich, dark and swarthy. This is a special parcel from one of Lodi's finest cellars, so good we aren't allowed to name them. That's part of the hush hush deal that ensured an exceptionally good price on this wine. It won't surprise you that sales for super-premium wines have slowed, so the winery was keen to shift some stock. And with Zin-focused customers, we were more than delighted to oblige.

Small grapes ensure intense colour and a big lift of super-ripe black fruits, rippled with vanilla and spice. Open and decant an hour beforehand. Great with roast red meats.

Casa Primicia is one of the oldest buildings in Rioja Alavesa – in the 15th century it was where the Church collected tithes. In 1985 the Madrid brothers bought it and converted it into a winery. A host of prestigious awards soon followed, including the ‘Grand Prix d’Honneur’ at Vinexpo in Bordeaux. Grapes for this wine come from a beautiful 40-year-old vineyard and a good vintage.

Winemaker was Fernando Domingo (he trained under great oenologist Don Manuel Ruiz Hernández), who aged the wine in American and French oak barrels for 18 months, the rest in bottle, to obtain the perfect balance of subtle spice and deep fruit. A superb Rioja Reserva with red berry notes, cocoa, vanilla and toasty oak. Excellent with tapas, lamb or rice dishes.

For lovers of Tuscany's ethereal Brunello di Montalcino wines, Rosso di Montalcino is a superb and more affordable alternative. It's wines don't quite last the decades of Brunello, but then sometimes you can't wait that long. This glorious pure Sangiovese is from Giacomo Neri, a winemaker renowned for his remarkable Brunellos, two of which have scored a perfect 100 points. His father founded the estate in 1971, realising the huge potential of the area's soil and climate. He passed the property to his son in 1991, who has taken excellence another step even higher, extending the vineyards, now 63 hectares, and buying up some remarkable single vineyards too. Decant this red an hour before serving with rich red meat dishes.

Oltrepo Pavese lies in southwest Lombardy, next to Piedmont, hence its former name, Old Piedmont. Castello di Cigognola is an impressive, 13th-century castle, lying high on a hill, overlooking the Scuropasso Valley, across to Emilia Romagna. No wonder, then, it was once a stronghold for feudal lords. Over the centuries, it has been a gathering place for politicians and philosophers and today it remains a tranquil spot. It is home to many artistic pursuits, including great wine. Gabriele Moratti is in charge today. Sustainably tended, the vineyards are in the process of organic conversion. Using all Barbera from their 30-year-old La Maga vineyard, the wine had a year's ageing in small barrels. A very fine red. Open early and decant, or age.