It’s a terrific glassful on its own, anytime of the day, perfect with a slice of cake (Madeira or lemon and almond perhaps) or fruity pudding. Moscato is of course the same as France’s Muscat, one of the most aromatic varieties in the world, only challenged to that title by Gewurztraminer! Asti is the finest area of Italy’s Piedmont for the style and we think this is the best we’ve tasted. It’ll bring thoughts of spring to mind whatever the time of year. Embrace the sweetness and freshness – this fizz is a delight. Chill well.

Antonio Federici is a small, 3rd-generation cellar in Lazio, just south of Rome. As you'll taste here, its wines are both authentic and exceptionally delicious.

Normally, they only supply their meagre output to top restaurants in Rome. But with most shut in 2020 and 2021, we managed to gain a small allocation of this superb, cherry-scented red.

On fine limestone soils (the rocks of which were used to build some of Rome's most famous buildings) they grow some of Italy's most characterful native grapes. From these they make a small range of highly awarded, rule-breaking wines.

No doubt the skill of top Italian consultant Franco and Matteo Bernabei come into play, as well as the commitment and passion of the family.

A great pizza or pasta red.

Founded in 1965 by Alfo Bartolommei, this remarkable family estate is one of the region’s star performers. It used to be part of the great Pieve Santa Restituta and is also a neighbour to the renowned Soldara. All in all, with its 21 hectares of vines, the property is perfectly situated to produce some of the very finest Brunellos. Every vintage, their wines gain top scores. Alfo’s three children – Paolo, Paola and Manuele – now run the estate, with grandson Giacomo as winemaker. They’ve been ratcheting up the quality in recent years, so it's remarkable how this domaine has remained relatively under the radar. Despite his youth and dynamism, Giacomo keeps methods fairly traditional, as well as organic. This is a mesmerising, complex red.

Oltrepo Pavese lies in southwest Lombardy, next to Piedmont, hence its former name, Old Piedmont. Castello di Cigognola is an impressive, 13th-century castle, lying high on a hill, overlooking the Scuropasso Valley, across to Emilia Romagna. No wonder, then, it was once a stronghold for feudal lords. Over the centuries, it has been a gathering place for politicians and philosophers and today it remains a tranquil spot. It is home to many artistic pursuits, including great wine. Gabriele Moratti is in charge today. Sustainably tended, the vineyards are in the process of organic conversion. Using all Barbera from their 30-year-old La Maga vineyard, the wine had a year's ageing in small barrels. A very fine red. Open early and decant, or age.