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When I came over the high pass south into the Agly Valley in the 70s, I was captivated by the ancient vines on steep, terraced hills, topped by high, ruined castles. It was wild 'unknown' territory. That's where bestselling Cabalié, made by the legendary Hervé Sabardeil, is from. Hervé buys grapes for Cabalié from many vineyards, but the best grapes came from two vineyards of 100-year-old vines on schist/granite soils. They are two of France's oldest vineyards, lying on steep, terraced hillsides. When Hervé learned the farmer was retiring, he bought those two vineyards – and thus we have the 'Grand Cru' Origine … the purest essence of Cabalié … made solely from those two vineyards. It's a nearly all dark, spiced Carignan, with a few rows of silky Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, which add to the incredibly rich fruit and luscious texture.
Antonio Federici is a small, 3rd-generation cellar in Lazio, just south of Rome. As you'll taste here, its wines are both authentic and exceptionally delicious.
Normally, they only supply their meagre output to top restaurants in Rome. But with most shut in 2020 and 2021, we managed to gain a small allocation of this superb, cherry-scented red.
On fine limestone soils (the rocks of which were used to build some of Rome's most famous buildings) they grow some of Italy's most characterful native grapes. From these they make a small range of highly awarded, rule-breaking wines.
No doubt the skill of top Italian consultant Franco and Matteo Bernabei come into play, as well as the commitment and passion of the family.
A great pizza or pasta red.
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Silky cherry and smoky tobacco maturity in this fine Sicilian Riserva. It blends a little juicy Cabernet with Nero d’Avola from high old vineyards. Combines berry intensity and spicy length.
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From a fourth-generation-owned Pauillac cellar, B de Fonbadet may fall under the humble Bordeaux label, but it’s intensity and complexity leave no doubt about its high-end quality. This 2019 has even won the Decanter’s esteemed Platinum medal.
For Bordeaux with lots of smooth, ripe fruit appeal, choose Château Les Moutins. 2019 was a great vintage – well balanced with deliciously ripe fruit. Nearly-all Merlot, this velvety claret makes delightful drinking now.
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A glorious, top vintage Super Tuscan, awarded a phenomenal 99 points by Italy’s top critic, Luca Maroni. It’s from a Tuscan estate that’s no stranger to high-90s scores. Sangiovese with Merlot and Cab, barrel aged, it is sumptuous and rich.
Luca Maroni 99pts！
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