Cabalié's popularity is down to a rare combination of imposing richness and easy drinking smoothness. Recreating that in white was no easy task. But Cabalié maestro Hervé Sabardeil has done it – years of searching, blending and hard work come to fruition in this, his ultimate expression of a southern French white. The magical grape mix is old-vine Viognier for intense honeysuckle aroma and soft texture, Muscat for dazzling grapey notes, and Colombard to keep it all zesty. And of course the other key ingredients are bright southern French sunshine, which ripens the grapes to perfection, sea breezes to keep them healthy and night harvesting to ensure maximum freshness. Bursting with tropical fruit, Cabalié is perfect with seafood or chicken.

As you’d expect from a wine dominated by Durif, this is a whopper of a red. It was carefully crafted in the darkest corner of the cellar. Why? Because it’s the special project of rising star winemaker David Joeky and he didn’t want anyone to take a look or taste it until he was absolutely ready. So every evening, after the rest of the crew had left, David would retire to the furthest corner of the cellar, where he’d stationed his special tanks of dark, spicy Durif and ripest, peppery Shiraz. We think he’s ‘blended a blinder’ as the locals say. It’s firm and full, yet abundant in gloriously ripe, liquorice and spice scented fruit with an underlying note of oak. Smooth enough to sip on its own, but even better with hearty red meat dishes.

Champion the small grower with this terrifically fresh and grassy white. It’s from Marlborough, which enjoys a worldwide reputation for herbaceous Sauvignon Blanc. Duck ’n’ Pheasant is from a cellar that works with individual growers who lack the facilities to produce their own wine, but don’t want to see their precious harvest become an anonymous component of a big brand.

The grapes were all sourced from vineyards which, thanks to free draining, gravelly soils (and the odd duck or pheasant), give excellent flavour intensity. Quality in 2021 was exceptional, with lovely concentration, all captured in bottle and sealed in under screwcap for guaranteed freshness. A crisp glass on its own, and a tasty partner to salmon, chicken or Thai curry.