When I came over the high pass south into the Agly Valley in the 70s, I was captivated by the ancient vines on steep, terraced hills, topped by high, ruined castles. It was wild 'unknown' territory. That's where bestselling Cabalié, made by the legendary Hervé Sabardeil, is from. Hervé buys grapes for Cabalié from many vineyards, but the best grapes came from two vineyards of 100-year-old vines on schist/granite soils. They are two of France's oldest vineyards, lying on steep, terraced hillsides. When Hervé learned the farmer was retiring, he bought those two vineyards – and thus we have the 'Grand Cru' Origine … the purest essence of Cabalié … made solely from those two vineyards. It's a nearly all dark, spiced Carignan, with a few rows of silky Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, which add to the incredibly rich fruit and luscious texture.

Here, in the UK, we don't get to drink much Californian Zinfandel - 95% of it is consumed locally. And Lodi is one of the elite regions for growing it, its wines gorgeously rich, dark and swarthy. This is a special parcel from one of Lodi's finest cellars, so good we aren't allowed to name them. That's part of the hush hush deal that ensured an exceptionally good price on this wine. It won't surprise you that sales for super-premium wines have slowed, so the winery was keen to shift some stock. And with Zin-focused customers, we were more than delighted to oblige.

Small grapes ensure intense colour and a big lift of super-ripe black fruits, rippled with vanilla and spice. Open and decant an hour beforehand. Great with roast red meats.

Founded in 1965 by Alfo Bartolommei, this remarkable family estate is one of the region’s star performers. It used to be part of the great Pieve Santa Restituta and is also a neighbour to the renowned Soldara. All in all, with its 21 hectares of vines, the property is perfectly situated to produce some of the very finest Brunellos. Every vintage, their wines gain top scores. Alfo’s three children – Paolo, Paola and Manuele – now run the estate, with grandson Giacomo as winemaker. They’ve been ratcheting up the quality in recent years, so it's remarkable how this domaine has remained relatively under the radar. Despite his youth and dynamism, Giacomo keeps methods fairly traditional, as well as organic. This is a mesmerising, complex red.

It’s from Primicia, a bodega adored by customers and also by fine wine guru Robert Parker. He is full of praise for their fruity, modern Riojas.

Casa Primicia is one of the oldest buildings in Rioja Alavesa – in the 15th century it was where the Church collected tithes. In 1985 the Madrid brothers bought it and converted it into a winery. A host of prestigious awards soon followed, including the ‘Grand Prix d’Honneur’ at Vinexpo in Bordeaux. Grapes for this wine come from a beautiful 40-year-old vineyard and a good vintage.

Winemaker was Fernando Domingo (he trained under great oenologist Don Manuel Ruiz Hernández), who aged the wine in American and French oak barrels for 18 months, the rest in bottle, to obtain the perfect balance of subtle spice and deep fruit. A superb Rioja Reserva with red berry notes, cocoa, vanilla and toasty oak. Excellent with tapas, lamb or rice dishes.

Classic Rioja fans will love this red, with all its moreish, silky, ripe berry fruit tempered by toasty spice. No wonder the late Spanish expert John Radford listed Primicia among his top 20 Rioja bodegas. It’s a family estate, founded by three brothers, and has over the years won many awards. This 2021 is made from 100% strawberry-scented Tempranillo, from mature, low-yielding vineyards.

Winemaker Fernando Domingo matured the wine in American oak barrels for four months – just enough to flatter the fruit with gentle toasty spice and hints of vanilla, while letting plenty of exuberant, youthful fruit character shine through. A delight on its own, this wine is spot on with garlic chicken, lamb chops with rosemary or a selection of tapas.