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Our Languedoc buyer, Mark Hoddy, was in Corbières's Fabrezan cellar, tasting through the vintage. One white stood way out, so good, he insisted on visiting the grower. The upshot is this glorious, rich oaked white with ripe peach freshness.
If you enjoy quality wine and appreciate value, southern France has a lot to offer. There is a myriad of appellations and producers to get to know. And fewer rules to follow, so winemakers can be creative. We have been wending our way around villages and vineyards there since the late 1960s so we know where to look and have many invaluable connections.
Yannick Pons of Domaine Saint André has a beautiful estate, skirted by the Canal du Midi and the Roman road Via Domitia. It's not far from the famous Oppidum (hilltop town) d’Ensérune, which dates back some 3,000 years. This is prime Chardonnay country, producing lovely, pure, creamy peach fruit in this modern style white. It’s perfect on its own or with salads, fish dishes or roast chicken.
Dominio de Los Duques is crafted under the watchful eye of Don Vicente García, a man hugely respected by his winemaking colleagues in Valencia. When the Catalan growers fought to limit the name ‘Cava’ to their own sparkling wines, they offered to make an exception for him. But, instead of accepting, he chose to fight for the rights of other small growers in his region and won! Thanks to Vicente, Cava is now made in over 150 wine regions including his home town of Requena (one of the best), 40 miles from Valencia.
This fine sparkling wine was aged for 12 months to ensure richness and complexity. It has very small bubbles (a sign of quality), a refreshing stone fruit character and elegant floral notes. Serve chilled on its own or with tapas.
Most Cava is produced in Catalunya, but here’s one from a small producer based near Valencia, determined to outclass his northern neighbours. Made using the classic Champagne method, it boasts a fine mousse and a lovely complexity.
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An exuberant, super-fresh white from Chile's remote Elqui Valley. Brisk nights ensure the fabulous crispness of Don Aldo, which combines Pedro Ximénez and Chardonnay in this intensely aromatic, mineral-zipped white.
Family owned since 1664, the Karp-Schreiber estate lies in the heart of the Mosel. This important region starts southwest of the ancient city of Trier and follows the river its named after through the Rhineland to Koblenz where the Mosel joins the Rhine. Dramatic, slate-covered slopes are the key to the region’s wine quality. Estate manager Alwin Karp and winemaker son Jobst Julius have 6 hectares of Riesling, cultivated on these steep slopes, including a patch of Grand Cru Juffer Sonnenuhr vines. As the vineyards are far too precarious for machinery, all the work is done by hand.
Dry Karp from the very good 2021 vintage is a Mosel classic – zesty, delicate floral notes and mineral freshness. Great solo or with seafood or Asian dishes.
