Château Lafite’s Barons de Rothschild in France and world renowned Nicolás Catena from Argentina – Bodegas Caro Aruma Malbec 2021.

Aruma brings together small batches of wine made from tiny parcels of premium Ucó Valley grapes – from Altamira, El Peral and San José – to create a fine, silky and complex blend. Hand-harvested, high grown, old-vine grapes provide outstanding quality, while the absence of any oak maturation ensures the wine shows great purity of fruit from Ucó terroir. Velvety smooth and deeply fruity with beautiful floral notes, this mouthfilling stunner is a delight from first sip to last.

James Suckling is impressed – he gives it a stellar 93pts. He also gave its 2020 vintage an impressive 92pts and commented: "Perfumed yet focused nose with lots of violets and deep but fresh blueberries. Very pure”.

Like most Argentine Malbecs (and indeed many fine French wines), it will match your finest cut of beef beautifully. Decant and pour into large glasses so that its full magnificent flavours can be suitably appreciated.

In these tunnels are stored a fascinating library of older vintages. This is a rare opportunity to get your share of one. Just this year, Wine Advocate rated a 1970 Rioja from this estate at 95 points. It was in fine form with years ahead of it! All goes to prove that the ancient tunnels (los calados) provide the ideal conditions for long ageing the wines. The grapes are also key – for this red they were picked from 40 year old bush vines high up in the Alta, so flavour is exceptionally concentrated. In fact, the grapes used to supply Paternina – legends of Rioja. Ideal with game or mushroom risotto.

Its secret? It’s crafted by a master winemaker, Hervé Sabardeil, following the centuries-old style beloved of Roman centurions, who first made wine there. Raspberry-rich Grenache, with herby Syrah and Carignan, Cabalié has impressive concentration. That’s due to the maturity of the vines, most well over 50 years old. The tiny berries they produce give Cabalié extraordinarily rich, ripe flavours. Boasting 8 Golds in as many vintages, this much-loved red is warming solo or with hearty dishes.

Take a minute to read online reviews for Cabalié. This one is typical: “When my time comes to shuffle off this mortal coil, this is the wine I want in that final glass. It is simply, utterly, indescribably fantastic.” Its secret? It’s crafted by the internationally acclaimed Hervé Sabardeil in the ancient vineyard region of Roussillon. Using largely Grenache, with additions of herb scented Syrah and fragrant Cinsault, Cabalié has impressive concentration. That’s due to the maturity of the vines, which include some of the oldest Grenache in France. The tiny berries they produce give Cabalié extraordinarily rich, ripe flavours. Boasting 12 medals in five vintages, this now legendary wine is in its element with a slow braised beef casserole.