Wine Enthusiast calls Amarone “one of the 15 icons in Italian wine”. They are certainly some of the most prized reds from Italy, made by the ancient tradition of sun drying grapes before fermentation. This gives them an amazing richness, a glorious combination of power and complexity that cellars well, too. No wonder they are prized the world over. This 2017 from the renowned Cantina Negrar is named after the 18th century poet Bartolomeo Lorenzi, whose epic poem celebrating rural life made Valpolicella wines famous. The grapes are from the ancient dry stone terraces of the cool Marano Valley, where they ripen slowly. They are then air dried for 120 days to intensify flavours. A superb bottle to enjoy now with hearty dishes or to cellar.

Château Lafite’s Barons de Rothschild in France and world renowned Nicolás Catena from Argentina – Bodegas Caro Aruma Malbec 2021.

Aruma brings together small batches of wine made from tiny parcels of premium Ucó Valley grapes – from Altamira, El Peral and San José – to create a fine, silky and complex blend. Hand-harvested, high grown, old-vine grapes provide outstanding quality, while the absence of any oak maturation ensures the wine shows great purity of fruit from Ucó terroir. Velvety smooth and deeply fruity with beautiful floral notes, this mouthfilling stunner is a delight from first sip to last.

James Suckling is impressed – he gives it a stellar 93pts. He also gave its 2020 vintage an impressive 92pts and commented: "Perfumed yet focused nose with lots of violets and deep but fresh blueberries. Very pure”.

Like most Argentine Malbecs (and indeed many fine French wines), it will match your finest cut of beef beautifully. Decant and pour into large glasses so that its full magnificent flavours can be suitably appreciated.

In these tunnels are stored a fascinating library of older vintages. This is a rare opportunity to get your share of one. Just this year, Wine Advocate rated a 1970 Rioja from this estate at 95 points. It was in fine form with years ahead of it! All goes to prove that the ancient tunnels (los calados) provide the ideal conditions for long ageing the wines. The grapes are also key – for this red they were picked from 40 year old bush vines high up in the Alta, so flavour is exceptionally concentrated. In fact, the grapes used to supply Paternina – legends of Rioja. Ideal with game or mushroom risotto.