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This is a gorgeous mellow Gran Selección from Campo de Borja, using old-vine Garnacha, plus dense Cabernet. Aged for five years in oak, it's gorgeously complex with soft berry spice and savoury length.
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Wine Advocate is emphatic in its praise for RedHeads winery: "Tour-de-force winemaking. Genius. Must be tasted to be believed." Esulé is a deep, dark seductive Cabernet Sauvignon enriched by aromatic Cabernet Franc, a worthy 90-pointer.
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With many wines ranked over 90 points, Bodegas La Emperatriz is one of Rioja's finest estates. This is their seductively long, complex 7-year-old Gran Reserva from a remarkably single vineyard, just beginning to show at its best. Savour slowly.