When I came over the high pass south into the Agly Valley in the 70s, I was captivated by the ancient vines on steep, terraced hills, topped by high, ruined castles. It was wild 'unknown' territory. That's where bestselling Cabalié, made by the legendary Hervé Sabardeil, is from. Hervé buys grapes for Cabalié from many vineyards, but the best grapes came from two vineyards of 100-year-old vines on schist/granite soils. They are two of France's oldest vineyards, lying on steep, terraced hillsides. When Hervé learned the farmer was retiring, he bought those two vineyards – and thus we have the 'Grand Cru' Origine … the purest essence of Cabalié … made solely from those two vineyards. It's a nearly all dark, spiced Carignan, with a few rows of silky Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, which add to the incredibly rich fruit and luscious texture.

Home to “thunderously powerful Grenache” (Andrew Jefford).The grapes come from very old vines – between 60 and 100 years old! Yields are minute (about half of a Grand Cru Bordeaux), which accounts for the opulently black colour and incredible intensity of flavour.

The power-packed wine was then aged in oak casks to lend an even more luxurious layer of creamy rich and lavish oak complexity. This is an outstanding, weighty red that even manages to outpower the original Cabalié – it’s that deep and concentrated! It will be a truly decadent and delicious partner to your year-end parties and Chinese New Year feasts – and it will look wonderful on the table too.

Founded in 1965 by Alfo Bartolommei, this remarkable family estate is one of the region’s star performers. It used to be part of the great Pieve Santa Restituta and is also a neighbour to the renowned Soldara. All in all, with its 21 hectares of vines, the property is perfectly situated to produce some of the very finest Brunellos. Every vintage, their wines gain top scores. Alfo’s three children – Paolo, Paola and Manuele – now run the estate, with grandson Giacomo as winemaker. They’ve been ratcheting up the quality in recent years, so it's remarkable how this domaine has remained relatively under the radar. Despite his youth and dynamism, Giacomo keeps methods fairly traditional, as well as organic. This is a mesmerising, complex red.

It’s from Primicia, a bodega adored by customers and also by fine wine guru Robert Parker. He is full of praise for their fruity, modern Riojas.